| There are a number of sewing techniques on how | | | | The "Fusible Thread" basting will show up on the |
| to sew a centered zipper. But, this is probably the | | | | right side of the zipper tape. |
| simplest way to save you from the frustration of | | | | Place your garment with the zipper seam |
| having to rip it out and sew it over. | | | | allowance side up on your pressing board. |
| Here are some sewing tips to help you. | | | | With the zipper face down, place the bottom |
| First of all, purchase a zipper longer than you | | | | metal stop of the zipper at the bottom of the |
| actually need to avoid stitching near the bulk of | | | | zipper opening and roll the teeth down along the |
| the pull tab. You can use any of your longer | | | | stitching line up to the top. Press both sides of the |
| zippers in your stash, too. | | | | tape fusing the tape to the seam allowances. |
| Preshrink the zipper. This helps prevent buckling | | | | Note: If you don't have "Fusible Thread", try using |
| later if the tape does shrink. | | | | a double sided transparent basting tape or a strip |
| Interface the garment zipper seam allowances | | | | of fusible that you press and adhere to the zipper |
| with a lightweight fusible knit interfacing. Cut 2 | | | | tape. Then "glue or fuse" the zipper to the seam |
| strips of fusible knit interfacing about 1" wide on | | | | allowances. |
| the straight of grain and fuse to the wrong side | | | | Now the zipper is temporarily held in place. |
| of the garment zipper area seam allowances. | | | | Cut a strip of 1/2 inch wide paper medical tape or |
| Stitch your garment seam from the bottom to | | | | scotch tape the length of the zipper opening. |
| the mark where the bottom of the zipper will be. | | | | Draw a fine line exactly down the center of the |
| Stop and drop the feed dog on your sewing | | | | tape. There should be 1/4 inch on either side of |
| machine and stitch up and down in the same place | | | | the line. |
| a few stitches to sink a knot. Don't backstitch. | | | | On the right side of the garment, place this tape |
| You can never backstitch straight and this causes | | | | over the zipper seam line matching up the drawn |
| bulk in the seam and never lays well. | | | | line on the tape with the stitching line on the |
| Raise the feed dog and set your sewing machine | | | | seam. |
| stitch to a large baste stitch. | | | | Set your sewing machine for top stitching. Put a |
| Continue stitching the seam to the top. Do not | | | | zipper foot on the machine. |
| backstitch or make a knot. Leave a long tail of | | | | Starting at the bottom of the zipper below the |
| thread so it will be easy to remove. | | | | metal stop, stitch across the bottom, stop, pivot |
| Clip the first baste stitch beyond the knot for | | | | and continue stitching up to the top of the zipper |
| easy removal later. | | | | using the edge of the tape as your guide to stitch |
| Sandwich press the stitched seam. Press open | | | | straight. |
| the seam on the wrong side. Then press again on | | | | Reverse your zipper foot and stitch the other |
| the right side. Use a press cloth to protect your | | | | side across the bottom and up from the bottom |
| fabric if necessary. | | | | to the top the same. |
| Extra tip: Brown paper super market bags make | | | | Now, your zipper is installed. Remove the paper |
| good press cloths. Avoid the printed area. | | | | medical tape from the right side. Pull the basting |
| Now, wind a bobbin with "Fusible Thread" and put | | | | thread out from the top. It should come out |
| it in your sewing machine. | | | | easily since you already clipped the thread next to |
| Set your sewing machine stitch length to a large | | | | the knot. |
| basting stitch. | | | | Warning: Do NOT cut off the top of the zipper |
| With the zipper face down at the sewing machine, | | | | until after your waistband is completed. Leave the |
| use your regular presser foot and sew from the | | | | zipper open. Apply your waistband. Then cut off |
| bottom of the zipper tape to the top on both | | | | the excess zipper. |
| sides of the zipper. The edge of the presser foot | | | | You did it! Admire your centered zipper. It is easy |
| will be along the zipper teeth on the wrong side of | | | | when you know the sewing secrets! |
| the zipper. | | | | Try it! It just makes sense! |