| One important element of a model railroad setup | | | | One very important factor in model railroading is |
| is model train track. Without it, the train cannot | | | | the laying of the track. You do want your train to |
| operate. Many modelers, especially beginners, are | | | | run and operate smoothly, don't you? If you have |
| so excited about their locomotive and railroad | | | | an inappropriate surface on which to place your |
| cars, the track seems like a trivial part of the | | | | rails, your train will not run properly. |
| setup. Actually, it is an important part of the | | | | When you purchase your track products, you |
| setup if you want your train to operate smoothly. | | | | need to be familiar with a few railroading terms. |
| There are many readily available track products | | | | * Code: as mentioned earlier, refers to the rail |
| out there, and you need to consider your choices | | | | height. A code of 100 means the rail height is.100 |
| very carefully prior to purchase. Track comes in | | | | inches. |
| various railhead materials: nickel silver, brass, or | | | | * Switches or Turnouts: allow trains to switch |
| steel. The Cadillac of track material is nickel silver | | | | from one track to another |
| because it will stay cleaner for a longer duration | | | | * Rerailers: these help to keep the train on the |
| than other track types. Nickel silver does not | | | | track |
| oxidize as quickly as other materials. | | | | * Terminal Rerailers: these connect the train track |
| The second runner up of railhead material is brass, | | | | to the power source |
| and steel should be your last choice. Although | | | | * Rail Joiner: metal sleeves that join the rails |
| steel does appear to be the most realistic in a | | | | electrically |
| display, it will rust and cause you problems with | | | | After your setup is complete and you've |
| smooth operation and cleanliness. | | | | operated your train for awhile, you will need to |
| Steel and brass are slowly being phased out of | | | | perform some track maintenance. If you |
| the commercial train product market anyway. If | | | | experience problems getting your locomotive to |
| you invest wisely in the beginning, you'll save | | | | run and everything else seems to be in good |
| headaches down the road. Opt for nickel silver, | | | | working order, then it is probably time to clean |
| even if it does cost you a little more up front. It | | | | the track. |
| will be well worth it later. | | | | Your track can be cleaned with liquid or friction |
| Train track product boxes most always contain a | | | | cleaners. To keep your track running great in |
| number or code on the outside of the package. | | | | between cleanings, apply a few drops of Rail Zip |
| This number indicates the rail height. It represents | | | | on the rail heads at random places along the main |
| the height in thousandths of an inch. | | | | track. Run the locomotive afterwards to aid in |
| The most common track rail height is 100, which | | | | distribution of the product. |
| is for the HO scale of train. Modelers seeking a | | | | The model train track is only a part of your |
| more natural and realistic appearance usually opt | | | | setup, but it is an important one. If the track is |
| for a rail height of 83 or so because it has finer | | | | not in prime operating condition, your model train |
| ties. | | | | will not be either. Happy railroading! |