| How can you begin when writing about the French | | | | interesting. In flat fell jeans, there are three stitch |
| seam or seams in general? It is important to | | | | lines. In the French seam above, there were two |
| describe how seams are done. Seams are ways | | | | stitch lines. I am not certain whether a third stitch |
| of joining fabric if 'joining' is the right word. Maybe | | | | line can be used in the French seam and such a |
| you should say instead that seams are ways of | | | | question is also interesting. Flat fell seams are |
| sewing fabric. Thus, seams are ways of sewing | | | | used for durable wear like jeans. One can say, in |
| fabrics. They complement fabric and design too. | | | | other words, that such flat fell seams are used |
| The French seam is a seam that some advise for | | | | for heavy durable fabric like denim. Like the |
| lightweight fabrics. The French seam and how it is | | | | general serged seam, the flat fell seam is sewn |
| done raises an important question re: fabrics i.e. | | | | right side to right side with the wrong side facing |
| the right and wrong sides and when designing | | | | out. A normal 5/8" is then sewn. This is a normal |
| fabrics, the question of right side and wrong side | | | | amount for general sewing but again I am not at |
| is important. Should you make the fabric | | | | all certain of manufacturing practice. Then snip or |
| reversible? Still with most fabrics, there is a right | | | | cut one seam allowance to within approximately |
| side and wrong side and there are ways of telling. | | | | ¼" of the stitching line. Note here that |
| Your own style sense is the best guide perhaps. | | | | ¼" is used. Remember that 1/8" was used |
| Ask which side looks good on the so-called | | | | at the beginning in the making of the French |
| outside? The right and wrong sides are important | | | | seam. Thus ¼" would certainly be too |
| to note re: all seams but remember that the | | | | much for a French seam and we can note that 1 |
| French seam is done in a kind of opposite way to | | | | 8" or near to this amount is suitable for a French |
| the general overlocked/serged or pinked seam. | | | | seam in the early stage. |
| It is structurally interesting that the French Seam | | | | Now press the higher and longer seam allowance |
| is sewn wrong side to wrong side. This, of course, | | | | over the shortened one. Press carefully. Press on |
| implies that the first sewing line is apparent on the | | | | the right side too. Use of cloths are important to |
| right side. It means thus that seam lips/allowances | | | | prevent damage to fabric when pressing in this |
| are apparent on the right side. This seam is | | | | way. The aim is to fold the longer seam allowance |
| ¼ ". It would be interesting to note the | | | | over the shorter one and thus to enclose the |
| directions for seam allowances in manufacture and | | | | shorter one. Remember that one is working on |
| it is possible that many details are different. Then | | | | the wrong side. Now too stitching lines are sewn, |
| you cut the seam allowance to within 1/8" of the | | | | the first 1/8" in from the fold and the second 2 |
| stitching line. In manufacture, this can certainly add | | | | 8". It is interesting to note that two stitching lines |
| to time and effort. Scissors or pinking shears may | | | | will show on the right side while three stitching |
| be used and this added use of manual labour may | | | | lines were, of course, sewn. |
| be too much for high bulk work. The question | | | | I note in some recent reports that surgical |
| whether 1/8" is suitable is important. Questions like | | | | stitches may be a thing of the past. I do not |
| is overall strength of seam affected by cutting | | | | know about the advancements in textile |
| too close to the stitching line. This is important of | | | | technology re: eventual replacement of seams. Still |
| course and when cutting the seam allowance as | | | | I see that surgical stitches could be a thing of the |
| above, remember that a subsequent step is to | | | | past and this raises the question whether fabric |
| fold the fabric right side to right side. This folding | | | | seams are comparable to surgical stitches and |
| must come about naturally in the sense that the | | | | whether they are replaceable. Certainly not |
| inside seam lips must be almost not felt or | | | | directly, I would think, writing as a layman and |
| untouchable as you fold. Before folding, press the | | | | with an interest in design and general clothing |
| seam allowances to one side. This facilitates the | | | | making. I have no intention of making |
| folding. Then with wrong sides out, press the fold | | | | comparisons. The body re: surgery and medicine |
| line carefully. In manufacture, folding is one of | | | | is something I would not dare even write about. |
| those processes which aid in the finished look and | | | | Still there may be comparison but in clothing there |
| are integral in the whole process. Even with | | | | is an obvious decorative function re: fabric seams. |
| normal serged seams, some element of folding | | | | And this decorative function is taken to almost a |
| happens. The making of a garment involves | | | | higher level in jeans construction. There is a note |
| seaming and then folding to a degree where | | | | on flat fell seams below. Note too that re: surgical |
| folding must be considered integral in the whole | | | | stitches, there is healing involved. The body |
| process of making a garment or accessory. | | | | seems to have a natural way of healing itself. |
| Now the seam allowance must be enclosed and a | | | | With the new technique, a film-like material which |
| seam of 3/8" is sewn with wrong sides out. This | | | | is apparently thinner than the diameter of human |
| seam will be almost invisible because it is so close | | | | hair is put on the wound. I am not sure still about |
| to the fold. This seam too could be characterised | | | | the nature of this film. It's width and length, I do |
| as a strengthening stitch. In a way there are two | | | | not know but the film is obviously thin. This film is |
| stitches so that there is apparent strength in the | | | | then heated so that the film seals the wound. |
| French seam. The French seam can be | | | | Note that sealing is important as well as heat and |
| characterised as a delicate piece of work since | | | | this is obviously too advanced for clothing |
| the latter stitching is done close to the fold and | | | | manufacture. I think this illustrates that it is the |
| then there was the cutting to 1/8" in the first | | | | fabric itself which is important and which dictates |
| seam. Now when the fabric pieces are turned to | | | | the seam choice. When developing new clothing |
| the right side, you can see the stitching line and | | | | technology, it is apparent perhaps that you must |
| the seam allowances are gone and have been | | | | develop new fabrics. Tulle and organdy, chiffon |
| enclosed. | | | | and silks...french seams may be always a seam of |
| Now a quick note on the flat fell seam used in | | | | choice in the use of these fabrics. For women's |
| jeans . Flat fell seams are popular with jeans. | | | | evening wear or certain party-wear, the french |
| They are so synonymous with jeans that the | | | | seam too is a seam of choice perhaps. |
| question of making jeans without flat fell seam is | | | | |