| The idea of ebonizing is just like any other staining | | | | work. Two or three days should be fine but you |
| process in wood - really it's nothing more than | | | | may want to experiment. Finally, strain the liquid |
| applying colour to wood and waiting until some of | | | | through a cloth (or a coffee filter) so you don't |
| it soaks in! In order to make it as even as | | | | have any particles and apply to some wood using |
| possible we usually use a rag, sponge or brush, | | | | your method of choice. |
| although some people immerse their wood | | | | As you can see, this isn't rocket science, and |
| entirely (which is OK for small pieces) and then | | | | varying the proportions of vinegar to metal will |
| we wait until it dries. | | | | effect the stain as will the length of time it brews. |
| If you use water-based stains you may have to | | | | The other thing to remember is that different |
| lightly sand after staining because water-based | | | | woods will absorb the stain differently so you |
| stains tend to raise the grain a little. It depends on | | | | might need more than one application, and the |
| your final finish and, of course, your personal | | | | colour will vary. Always follow the golden rule: test |
| preferences. | | | | it on a scrap piece first. You'll also probably find |
| Here we're talking specifically about ebonizing - | | | | that the wood will continue to change colour for a |
| making the wood as near black as we can. There | | | | day or two, possibly longer, after you have |
| are commercial stains you can buy, and you can | | | | stopped applying the stain. There's nothing you |
| even use boot black (it's a wax polish, after all, | | | | can do about this except be patient. There's |
| although it doesn't soak in very well), but how | | | | unlikely to be any change a week after application. |
| about a stain you can make with things you | | | | I've experimented with wax as a final finish over |
| almost certainly have lying around the house? | | | | the top, and with poly, both without problems. I |
| Here are those ingredients: | | | | haven't yet tried Danish or Tung oil, though I |
| A jar (best if it has a plastic lid so it won't rust, | | | | suspect they'll be fine. If in doubt, back to the |
| but not vital) | | | | golden rule again! |
| A piece of coarse steel wool or some old nails | | | | Unfortunately the method is a bit inconsistent so |
| (not galvanized - it won't work) | | | | you'll find it very difficult to get two batches the |
| Some ordinary vinegar | | | | same. Always make up enough for the job in |
| That's the lot! Put the steel wool or nails in the jar, | | | | hand in one go. If you want to be safe, go to the |
| add enough vinegar to cover them and close the | | | | store and buy the stuff they've got there, but if |
| lid. Now just leave it for the vinegar to do it's | | | | you enjoy experimenting a bit this is great fun. |